JordanLuca staged their AW20 LFWM runway in the Victorian splendour of Shoreditch Town Hall.
When I interviewed the boys for Sodium before their last show they told me how they planned to make more creative spaces for their community to come together and the East End setting delivered spectacularly on that promise
The old Shoreditch Borough motto is “More light more power” and the hall was illuminated by a host of candles which bathed the space in an almost quasi-religious atmosphere, one which was heightened by a candle bedecked altar at one end of the room. The power was provided by a collection which channelled the 17th century renaissance, the Tudors and East London 21st century swag, all accompanied by a pounding techno soundtrack.
The garments were created using “pre-loved fabrics” with upcycled and recycled faux and organic textiles used to produce a collection which bore a genuinely sustainable footprint.
The collection was delivered in a predominately black colour palette. This was interspersed with certain pieces in in neon orange, yellow and pink acid print , some of which were adorned with the faces of the JordanLuca family.
Functional futuristic techwear and tailored jackets were softened with renaissance ruffles and delicate lacing while trousers ranged from multi zipped and strapped bondage style to avant-garde athleisure and sportswear, some which came replete with Blackadderesque codpieces
The models peacocked their way down the catwalk like so many Tudor vagabonds , some wearing fantastical headpieces designed by long time family friend and millinery royalty Stephen Jones, some resplendent in monastic style cowls while those sans headwear sported bowl cuts reminiscent of the court of King Henry the V111
As always the garment detailing was immaculate as befits a duo whose commitment to decadent subversive menswear is matched by impeccable tailoring credentials.
It was an odyssey which took us from renaissance to rave and beyond. One which referenced heritage and traditional artisanal skills but one which also turned the often restrictive traditional parameters of menswear on its head to produce something wholly futuristic and quite magical. Jordan Bowen and Luca Marchetto wanted us to experience a 2020 renaissance, a collection of clothes for the brave and the fearless which wouldn’t just break but would shatter the established norms of contemporary menswear. I think we can safely say that they met their objectives.